VET INDEX | ANIMAL INDEX - OLD VET TREATMENTS AND REMEDIES.
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FARMING INDEX - OLD FARM PRACTICES AND REMEDIES FOR ANIMALS, PLANTS AND FIXING THINGS.
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POULTRY. 271
POULTRY.
Barn-yard Fowls..................... 271
American Breeds..................274
Brahmas..........................276
Cochin-Chinas or Shanghais........ 275
Dorkings.......................... 271
French Fowls...................... 272
Game.............................. 277
Hamburgs......................... 273
Leghorns.......................... 274
Modifications due to Breeding......271
Native Country of Barnyard Fowls 271 Spanish Fowls.....................273
Ducks................................ 284
Aylesbury......................... 284
Ducks :
Black Cayuga..................... 284
Common White.................... 284
Muscovy.......... ................ 285
Rouen............................ 284
Varieties for the Farm, Best....... 284
Word of Caution, a................ 285
Geese................................ 285
Canada........................... 285
Chinese............................ 285
Embden or White.................. 285
Gray or Toulouse.................. 285
Management, General.............. 285
Keeping and Rearing Poultry........ 279
Keeping and Rearing Poultry:
Capons............................283
Diseases of Poultry................284
Feeding............................ 281
Hatching.......................... 282
Hen-Houses........................279
Hens for raising Eggs.............. 283
Laying............................. 281
Purity of Breed....................283
Turkeys..............................266
Black-Bronzed..................... 286
Common...........................286
English............................ 286
Hints, a few........................286
The word Poultry—derived from the French I poule, hen—is a collective name for domestic fowl bred or fed for human food and for the eggs and feathers. In a more recent sense, how ever, the term is specially applied to
BARN-YARD FOWLS,
to a description of the commoner breeds of which we shall mainly confine ourselves in this article.
Native Country of Barnyard Fowls.—The originals of the various species of barnyard fowls were first found in thickets and other openings of for ests, but not in the dense forest itself. The Son- nerat fowl, a native of the Ghautes, separating Malabar from Coromandel, is a variety having a close resemblance to our common barnyard fowl. Wild fowls much like our old barnyard fowls were found by Damphier, previous to the discovery of Sonnerat, in the islands of the In dian Archipelago. Hence it may be confidently asserted that our fowls with long flowing tails are natives of India.
Modifications due to Breeding.—The wild species of Southern Asia and of the Malay Peninsula and Chittagong were, there can be little doubt, influ ential in modifying the large Asiatic breeds of the present time; and our bantams very likely spring from the Bankiva jungle-fowl, although judicious breeding and careful selection have pro duced bantams of nearly all the breeds of barn yard fowls, including the Games. We may clas sify our fowls, then, into the common or mixed breeds, Asiatic fowls, European and American varieties, and bantams. We will describe some of the popular breeds, beginning with the
Dorkings. — These are preeminently English fowls, and general favorites, especially with lady fanciers, not only for the great beauty of all the varieties, but even more perhaps for their un rivaled qualities as table-birds—a point in which ladies may be easily supposed to feel a peculiar interest.
The varieties of Dorkings usually recognized
are the Gray or Colored, Silver Gray and White. The White are believed to be the original breed, from which the colored varieties were produced by crossing with the old Sussex or some other large colored fowl. That such was the case is almost proved by the fact that only a few years ago nothing was more uncertain than the ap pearance of the fifth toe in colored chickens, even of the best strains. Such uncertainty in
any important point is always an indication of mixed blood ; and that it was so in this case is shown by the result of long and careful breeding, which has now rendered the fifth toe permanent, and finally established the variety.
In no breed are size, form and weight so much regarded in judging the merits of a pen. The body should be deep and full, the breast being protuberant and plump, especially in the cock, whose breast, as viewed sideways, ought to form a right angle with the lower part of his body. Both back and breast must be broad, the latter showing no approach to hollowness, and the en tire general make full and plump, but neat and
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compact. Hence a good bird should weigh I more than it appears to do. It is difficult to give a standard, but we consider that a cock which weighed less than 10 lbs., or a hen under 8½ lbs., would stand a poor chance at a first-class show; and cocks have been shown weighing over 14 lbs. This refers to the colored variety. White Dorkings have degenerated, and are somewhat less.
The legs must be white, with perhaps a slight rosy tinge; and it is imperative that each foot ex hibits behind the well-known double toe, per fectly developed, but not running into monstrosi ties of any kind, as it is rather prone to do. An excessively large toe, or a triple toe, or the fifth toe being some distance above the ordinary one, or the cock‘s spurs turning outward in stead of inward, would be glaring faults in a show pen.
The comb may, in colored birds, be either sin gle or double, but all in one pen must match. The single comb of a cock should be large and perfectly erect. White Dorkings should have double or rose combs, broad in front at the beak, and ending in a raised point behind, with no hol low in the center.
In the Gray variety the color is not material, so long as the two hens in the pen match. The cock's breast may be either black or mottled with white; the hackle, back and saddle are usually white, more or less striped with black ; and the wing often nearly white, with a well-de fined black bar across.
In the Silver Gray Dorking, however, color is imperative. This variety, there is not the slight est doubt, was at first a chance offshoot from the preceding, but has been perpetuated by care ful breeding. Colored birds will occasionally throw silver-gray chickens, and such are some times exhibited as “ bred " Silver Grays; but it is needless to add that disappointment is sure to ensue, unless the strain has been kept pure for many generations. The Silver Gray color is as follows: Cock's breast a pure and perfect black; tail and larger coverts also black, with metallic reflections; head, hackle, back and saddle fea thers pure silvery white ; and the wing-bow also white, showing up well a sharply-marked and brilliant bar of black across the middle. A sin gle white feather in the tail would be fatal. Hen's breast salmon-red, shading into gray at the thighs; head and neck silvery white, striped with black; back “ silver gray,” the white of the quill showing as a white streak down the center of each feather; wings also gray, with no shade of red; tail dark gray, passing into black in the inside. The general appearance of both birds should be extremely clean and aristocratic.
The white birds should be what their name
implies—a clear, pure and perfect white. There is generally in the cock more or less tendency to straw or cream color on the back and wings, and this should by no means disqualify a really first- class bird in all other points on account of it; but it is decidedly a fault.
White Dorkings are usually much smaller than the colored, which fact is believed to have hin dered the popularity of this truly exquisite va riety.
The Dorking is not, however, a good layer, ex cept when very young; and in winter is even de cidedly bad in this respect. The chickens are also of very delicate constitution when bred in confinement, and a few weeks of cold wet weather will sometimes carry off nearly a whole brood ; they ought not, therefore, to be hatched before May. But it is only right to say that when al lowed unlimited range the breed appears hardy, and as easy to rear as any other, if not hatched too soon.
French Fowls.—The varieties of French breeds best known in the United States are the Hou- dans, the Crèvecœurs, La Flèche and the Breda.
Houdans.—This fowl resembles the Dorking in many respects, and Dorking blood has evidently assisted in its formation. Houdans have the
Houdan Cock.
size, deep compact body, short legs and fifth toe of the Dorking, but with less offal and smaller bones. The plumage varies considerably, but is most usually white, with large black spangles. The head should be surmounted by a good Polish crest of black and white feathers. The wattles are pendent and well developed, and the comb is the most peculiar in formation of all the French breeds, resembling, as has been said, the two leaves of a book opened, with a long strawberry in the center; in the hen it should be very small
POULTRY. 273
and rudimentary. Imported Houdans frequently want the fifth toe, evidently derived from the Dorking. The chickens feather very rapidly and early, but are nevertheless exceedingly hardy, per haps more so than any except Cochins or Brah- mas, and are therefore easily reared with little loss. They are emphatically the fowl for a far mer, and will yield an ample profit on good feed ing, both in eggs and flesh.
Almost their only drawback is their refusal to incubate. Many, however, will consider this an advantage. The bird will bear a moderate amount of confinement well, but in this respect is not quite equal to
The Crèvecœur,—This breed is the one most preferred in France for the quantity and quality of its flesh. The full-grown cock will not un- frequently weigh 10 pounds, but 7½ to 8 pounds is a good average. In form the Crève is very full and compact, and the legs are exceedingly short, especially in the hens, which appear al most as if creeping about on the ground. In accordance with this conformation, their motions are very quiet and deliberate, and they appear the most contented in confinement of any fowls we know. The comb is in the form of two well- developed horns, surmounted by a large black crest giving the bird a very “diabolical” appear ance. Wattles full, and, like the comb, a very dark red. The throat is also furnished with ample whiskers and beard. Plumage mostly black, but in the largest and finest birds not un- frequently mixed with gold or straw on the hackle and saddle. The merits of the Crève consist in its edible qualities, early maturity, the facility with which it can be both kept and reared in confinement, and the fine large size of its eggs. The hen is, however, only a moderate layer, and the eggs are often sterile.
La Flèche.—In appearance this variety resem- bles the Spanish, from which it is believed to have been partly derived, but exceeds that breed in size, the cock often weighing from 8 to even 10 pounds. Both sexes have a large, long body, standing on long and powerful legs, and always weighing more than it appears, on account of the dense and close-fitting plumage. The legs are slate-color, turning with age to a leaden gray. The plumage resembles the Spanish, being a dense black with green reflections. The look of the head is peculiar, the comb being not only two-horned, much like the Crèvecœur, near the top of the head, but also appearing in the form of two little studs or points just in front of the nostrils. The wattles are very long and pendulous, of a brilliant red color, like the comb. The ear lobes are dead white, like the Spanish, and exceedingly developed, meeting under the neck in good specimens. In fact, no breed 18
could show stronger traces of its Spanish origin. The appearance of the La Flèche fowl is very bold and intelligent, and its habits active and lively. The hen is an excellent layer of very large white eggs, and does not sit. The flesh is excellent, and the fine white transparent skin makes a very favorable appearance on the table, which is only marred by the dark legs. The breed is, however, very delicate, and does not lay well in winter, except in favorable circum stances. As an egg-producer it is as nearly as possible similar to the Spanish, not only in the size and number of the eggs, but the seasons and circumstances in which they may be expected. In juiciness and flavor the flesh approaches nearer to that of the Game fowl than any other breed. The cocks suffer much from leg-weakness and disease of the knee-joint. They require, there fore, special care and the moderate use of stimu lants.
Breda, or Gueldres — This fowl is of exceedingly well-proportioned shape, with a wide, full, prom inent breast. The head carries a small topknot and surmounts a rather short, thick neck. The comb is very peculiar, being hollowed or de pressed instead of projecting, which gives to the head a most singular expression. Cheeks and ear-lobes red ; wattles ditto, and in the cock very long and pendulous. The thighs are well fur nished and vulture-hocked, and the shanks of the legs feathered to the toes, though not very heavily. The plumage varies, black, white and cuckoo or mottled being most seen. The cuckoo colored are known exclusively by the name of Gueldres, and the black bear chiefly the name of Bredas ; but it is much to be desired that one name should be given to the whole class, with simply a prefix to denote the color. The flesh is excellent and tolerably plentiful, very large cocks weighing as much as 8 or 9 pounds. They are very good layers, and the eggs are large. Like the other French breeds, the hens do not sit. The chickens are hardy, and the breed is decidedly useful.
Spanish Fowls.—Some of the Spanish varieties, as the Minorca or Red-faced Black, the Ancona, the Gray or Mottled, and the Andalusian or Blue Spanish, have long been prized in the United States for their great laying and non-sitting qualities, and as good table-birds, but are too delicate for a northern climate, and do not do well anywhere when exposed to wet. To the average farmer they are not a valuable breed.
Hamburgs.--Under the name of Hamburgs are now collected several varieties of fowls—Black Hamburg, Gold and Silver Penciled, and Gold and Silver Spangled—presenting the general charac teristics of rather small size; brilliant rose combs, ending in a spike behind, projecting upward;
274
blue legs, and beautifully penciled or spangled plumage. None of the Hamburgs ever show any disposition to sit unless in a state of great freedom, but lay nearly every day all through the year, except during the moulting season, whence they used to be called " Dutch everyday layers.” Hamburgs are strongly commended as a profit able breed. Each hen will lay from 200 to 250 eggs in a year, which certainly exceeds the pro duction of any other fowl; and if they are gen erally small, the consumption of food is com paratively even more so. Though naturally loving a wide range, there is no real difficulty in keeping them in confinement, if cleanliness be attended to.
The great difficulty in keeping them arises from their erratic propensities. Small and light, they fly like birds, and even a 10-foot fence will not retain them in a small run. They may, it is true, be kept in a shed ; but if so, the number must be very limited. Where six Brahmas would be kept four Hamburgs are quite enough, and they must be kept, dry and scrupulously clean. The penciled birds are also, most cer tainly, delicate, being very liable to roup if ex posed to cold or wet; they should not, therefore, be hatched before May. The spangled are hardy, and lay larger eggs than the penciled; but the latter lay rather the most in number. For profit, however, we should recommend the Black Hamburg, on account of the large size of the eggs ; and this variety is certainly the most extraordinary egg-producer of all breeds known.
Hamburgs are too small to figure much on the table. They carry, however, from the small- ness of the bones, rather more meat than might be expected, and what there is of it is of first- rate quality and flavor.
Leghorn Fowls, except in color, are of the Span ish type. The White Leghorn is the most pop ular, though some fancy the Brown. The former variety are among the most elegant of farmyard fowls. In appearance they closely resemble the Spanish, except that the plumage is white, with hackle or neck, and the saddle or rump feathers, golden-tinged. But whatever their color, the
Standard White Leghorns.
Leghorns all have the good laying qualities of the Spanish, without their delicacy, and indeed equal the Hamburgs in every good point.
American Breeds.—There are only three distinc tive American breeds that have gained wide cele brity—the Dominiques, the Ostrich fowls and the Plymouth Rocks.
Dominiques are probably one of the oldest va rieties, and resemble the cuckoo-colored fowls known as Scotch Grays, with the exception of having rose combs and yellow legs. They are plump and tender on the table, and capital lay ers, and might make a valuable cross for the Cuckoo Dorking. In color they are slaty-blue of a soft undulating shade on a light ground all over the body, forming narrow bands, and deli cately penciled among the smaller feathers. The feet and legs should be bright yellow or buff,
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and the bill of the same color. The combs of the cocks vary, some having a single and others a double comb.
Dominique Fowl.
The Ostrich breed are highly valued in Bucks County, Penn.—their native region—for their hardiness, weight, excellent laying qualities and fine flesh. The hens at maturity will weigh from 7 to 8 pounds, and often lay as many as 40 eggs before sitting. The cock‘s color is blue-black, the
Ostrich Fowls.
ends of the feathers tipped with white, the wings a golden or yellow tinge, the hackle a rich dark blue; the hens are similarly but more soberly marked. The cock has a double rose-colored comb and large wattles; the comb of the hen be ing single, high and serrated. The legs are short and the body plump.
Plymouth Rocks are apparently only a cross be tween Dominiques and Cochins. They nearly resemble Cuckoo Cochins in all but having clean legs. This breed has never become extensively
popular, and can only be recommended to those who desire a large bird of the Asiatic type without the accompaniment of leg-feather. In recent years an Improved Plymouth has appeared which shows careful and uniform breeding, and is said to grow fast, fledge early, take on flesh rapidly, and to combine excellent qualities as an egg-producer and as a table-bird.
Cochin-Chinas, or Shanghais.—As now brought to perfection, this breed presents the following char acteristics :
The cock ought to weigh not less than 10 or 11 pounds; the hens from 8 to 9 or 10 pounds. The breast in both sexes should be broad and full. The neck can hardly be too short in either sex, so that it does not look clumsy; and the back must be short from head to tail, and very broad. The legs to be short and set widely apart, and the general make to be as full, wide and deep as pos sible. The shanks are profusely feathered down to the toes, and the thighs should be plentifully furnished with the fine downy feathers denomi nated “fluff.” The color of the shanks is yellow, a tinge of red being rather a recommendation than otherwise. The head should be neat and rather small; the comb of moderate size, straight, erect and evenly serrated. The ear-lobes must be pure red. The tail of the hen is very small, and nearly covered by the feathers of the saddle, which are very plentiful and form a softly rising cushion on the posterior part of the back ; the tail of the cock is larger than in the hen, but still small and not very erect; the wings in both sexes very small, neatly and closely folded in, and the general carriage noble and majestic. The prin cipal colors now bred are white, buff and par tridge. The white and buff are most popular.
The chickens, though they feather slowly, are hardier than any other breed except Brahmas, and will thrive where others would perish ; they grow fast, and may be killed when twelve weeks old. The fowls will do well in very confined space, are very tame and easily domesticated, and seldom quarrel. They cannot fly, and a fence two feet high will effectually keep them within bounds. As sitters and mothers the hens are un surpassed ; though they are, unless cooped, apt to leave their chickens and lay again too soon for very early broods. Lastly, they are prolific layers, especially in winter when eggs are most scarce.
This breed is considered most useful to supply the family demand for either chickens or eggs, or to provide sitters for numerous broods ; but it is little valued as a market fowl unless crossed with the Dorking or Crèvecœur; neither will it be found profitable where eggs are the sole consideration, and the hens cannot be allowed to I indulge their sitting propensities.
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THE FRIEND OF ALL.
Brahmas.—The following description of Light Brahmas has been carefully drawn up under the supervision of John Pares, Esq., of Postford, near Guildford, Eng., well known as the most eminent exhibitor of this variety for many years past:
“ Light Brahmas are chiefly white in the color of the plumage; but if the feathers be parted, the bottom color will often be found of a bluish gray, showing an important distinction between them and white Cochins, in which the feathers are always white down to the skin. The neck- hackles should be distinctly striped with black down the center of each feather. That of the cock is, however, often lighter than in the case of the hen. The back should be quite white in both sexes.
“ The wings should appear white when folded, but the flight-feathers are black.
“ The tail should be black in both sexes. In the cock it is well developed, and the coverts show splendid green reflections in the light. It should stand tolerably upright, and open well out laterally like a fan.
“ The legs ought to be yellow, and well cov ered with white feathers, which may or may not be very slightly mottled with black: vulture- hocks are a great defect.
“ The ear-lobes must be pure red, and every bird should, of course, have a perfect pea-comb.”
The Dark, or Penciled, Brahmas are similar to the above in comb, form, symmetry, etc., but as different in color as can well be. The following description is by an eminent English breeder :
“ The head of a perfect Brahma cock should be surmounted by a good ‘ pea-comb,’ which re sembles three small combs running parallel the length of the head, the center one slightly the highest, but all evenly serrated and straight, and the whole low and set firm on the head. Beak strong, well curved, and the color of horn. Wat tles full; ear-lobes perfectly red, well rounded and falling below the wattles.
“ His neck should be rather short, but well curved, with very full hackle, which is silvery white, striped with black, and ought to flow well over the back and sides of the breast. At the head the feathers should be white. Back very short, wide and flat, rather rising into a dainty, soft, small tail, carried upright. The back al most white. The saddle-feathers white, striped with black, as in the neck, and the longer they are the better. The soft rise from the saddle to the tail, and the side feathers of the tail, to be pure lustrous green-black, except a few next the saddle, which may be slightly ticked with white’ the tail-feathers themselves pure black.
“ The breast should either be all black, or black with each feather slightly and evenly
tipped with white, but on no account splashes of white ; it should be well carried forward, full and broad. Wings small, and well tucked up under the saddle-feathers and thigh-fluff. A good sharply defined black bar across the wing is very important.
“ The fluff on the thighs and hinder parts ought to be black or very dark gray. The lower part of the thighs should have plenty of delicate soft feathers, almost black, rounding off about the joint and hiding it, but on no account running into vulture-hocks, which are a great eyesore.
“The cock should carry himself upright and sprightly, and great width and depth are impor tant points : a good bird should show great size and ‘ look big.’
“ The hen's head should be small, with a per fect pea-comb as in the cock, but smaller ; and the beak also resembling his in the decided curve and color. Wattles quite small and neatly rounded, the red ears hanging below them. Neck short, and gradually enlarging from head to shoulders. Feathers about the head grayish, verging to white, and the hackle more striped with black than in the cock.
“ General make of the back, tail, thighs, wings and breast the same as in the cock, but of course in proportion.
“ The color of the hen, except the neck and tail, is the same all over, each feather, even up to the throat on breast, having a dingy white ground, very much and closely penciled with dark steel- gray. The penciling on the throat and breast is very important, and is one of the first points looked at in a prize hen.
“ The hen‘s legs are short and thick, not quite so yellow as the cock's, and profusely feathered on the outside with feathers the same color as the body. Her carriage is scarcely so upright as that of the male bird.”
With regard to the merits of Brahmas, they must certainly rank very high. In size the dark variety surpasses every other breed yet known; the heaviest cock ever recorded, so far as we are aware, having attained the enormous weight of eighteen pounds, and thirteen and fourteen being not uncommon at good shows; though only good strains reach this weight, and miserable specimens are often seen which are inferior in size to Cochins. They also lay nearly every day, even in the depth of winter, and if purebred scarcely ever sit till they have laid at least thirty or forty eggs. When they sit more frequently, the hen will usually be very brown, and is, we believe, crossed with the Shanghai. As winter layers, no breed equals them. Brahmas are likewise very hardy, and grow uncommonly fast, being, therefore, very early ready for table, in which particular they are profitable fowls, having plenty
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of breast-meat. They bear confinement as well as Cochins, but are far more sprightly, and scarcely ever, like them, get out of condition from overfeeding.
The flesh, however, though better than that of Cochins, is much inferior, after six months, to that of the Dorking ; and this is their only real fault; but a cross with a Crèvecœur or Dorking cock produces the most splendid table-fowls pos sible, carrying almost incredible quantities of meat of excellent quality. Such a cross is well worth the attention of the farmer.
On the whole, there is no more profitable fowl “ all round " than the Brahma ; and a few hens at least should form part of the stock of every mo derate yard.
Game.—No variety of fowl has been so enthu siastically cultivated by amateurs as the Game, and in none perhaps is there so much room for legitimate difference of opinion. The varieties are legion ; and to describe every one would be hopeless, except in a work specially devoted to the purpose. We shall therefore only give de scriptions of the leading breeds, as written by Trevor Dickens, Esq., of London, one of the most eminent authorities on all points connected with the Game fowl.
“ The Game Cock, as the undisputed king of all poultry, requires more careful judging in regard to shape than any other bird. The Brown-reds have long been most perfect in out line ; but the following description will apply to a perfect bird of any breed:
“ The beak should be strong, curved, long and sharp; the comb single, small and thin, low in front, erect and evenly serrated; it is usually red, but sometimes darkish red. Head long and sharp, with the face and throat lean and thin. Ear-lobes small and red, never whitish. Neck long, strong and well arched ; the hackle short, hard, close, firm, and broad in the feather; Back short, and very hard both in flesh and feather ; broad at shoulders, narrow at tail, and rounded at the sides. Breast broad and very hard, but not by any means too lean or too full—the last would be useless weight; a good hard breast is most essential, as it is the most vulnerable part of the bird. The rump should be narrow, neat and short, the saddle-feathers close, hard and short. Wings very strong, and of a just medium length, well rounded to the body, and carried neither high nor low, but so as to protect the thighs. Very long-winged birds are usually too long in the body, and short-winged birds too broad in the stern. Tail neither long nor short, but medium length, and carried erect to show good spirit, but not ‘squirrel-fashion’ over the back ; it should be ‘ well fanned,’ or spreading, and the sickle-feathers of a good round full
curve, and standing clearly above the points of the quill tail-feathers. Very long-tailed birds are soft and long-bodied, and short-tailed birds are too short-winged, and often have broad rumps; thighs short and very muscular, hard and firm; placed well wide apart, and well up to the shoulders, in order to give a fine fore hand and make the bird stand firm on his legs; which latter should be sufficiently long, but not too much so, and placed wide apart as the thighs. Spurs low down, long, sharp and rather thin; curved slightly upward, and not turning in too much. Feet flat, broad, spreading and thin ; the claws and nails straight, long and strong; the back claw especially long and flat to the ground, to give a firm footing. The whole plumage should be very close, short and hard, with glossy reflections, and the quills or stems strong and elastic. Body in hand short and very hard, and the general carriage upright, quick, fierce and sharp. The back is best rather curved, provided it be flat crosswise, and not humpbacked or lop sided. Weight for exhibition, 4½ to 5½ lbs.; for the pit, not over 4½ lbs.
“ The Hen should correspond in form, but of course in proportion, hardness of flesh and feather, with shortness of body, being main points. Good hens generally become spurred, and such breed the hardest and best cocks. The proper weight of a hen is from 3 to 3½ pounds.
“ A short or clumsy head, short or soft neck, long body, narrow shoulders, long thighs, legs set close together, loose or soft plumage, and especially what is known as a ‘ duck-foot,’ are serious defects. It should be remembered that a Game fowl is always judged mainly in reference to its fighting qualities, and anything which in terferes with them is a fault in the bird.
“With respect to the varieties of Game, the sorts which take nearly all the prizes and cups are the Brown-red, Black-breasted Red, Silver Duck-wing Grays, and Piles; all which are cup- birds.
“ The Brown-red is essentially dark in blood, the eyes being a very dark brown, with a comb and face inclining to a dark gypsy purple, and the beak dark also. Breast of the cock a red-brown, shoulders sometimes passing into a rich orange- red color. Wing-butts of a dusky or dark smoky brown, and general color a dark red. Legs dark iron-brown or blackish bronze, with dark talons. Hackle with dark stripes, and thighs like the breast. The tail a dark greenish black, and the wing is often crossed with a glossy green bar. The general color of the hen is very dark brown, grained or penciled with lighter brown ; her neck-hackle a dark golden copper- red, thickly striped with dark stripes; and her comb and face darker than in the cock-bird.
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Good hens are usually spurred, and their tail- feathers show a slight curve.
“The Brown-red, of all the breeds, take the most cups at the principal shows. They are also the favorite breed with sportsmen, and are best in shape of all; but, like all the dark-combed varie ties, are not such good layers as those with bright red combs.
“Black-breasted Reds are essentially red- blooded birds, the plumage being generally a bright red, rather deeper on the body than in the hackle. Red eyes are absolutely essential to good birds, all others being inferior, and infalli bly denoting a cross. The cock's wings are bright red in the upper part and rich red chest nut in the lower, with a steel-blue bar across; breast bluish black, with glossy reflections; thighs the same ; tail greenish black, the feathers without much down at the roots. The comb and wattles of all Black-reds must be bright red, and the legs are usually willow-color in cup birds, though any leg will do if the birds are bright in color and have red eyes. The general color of the hen is a rich red partridge-brown, with a red fawn-colored breast, and reddish golden hackle with dark stripes; the cock‘s hackle also is striped underneath, but clear above. Spurred hens are the best, but are not so frequent as in the preceding variety.
“ Silver Duck-wing Grays are purer in blood than the Yellow or Birchen Duck-wings, and are white-skinned when of pure breed. General
color of the cock a silver gray; hackle striped with black underneath, but clear above ; back a clear silver-gray; breast either bluish black or clear mealy silver-color ; wing crossed with a steel-blue bar, and the lower part of a creamy white ; tail greenish glossy black. Hen a silvery bluish gray, thickly frosted with silver; breast a pale fawn-color; neck-hackle silvery white, striped with black. The comb and face in both sexes are bright red. The legs may be either white, blue or willow ; but of course the whole pen must match, and white leg to silver feather
ing is certainly the most correct match. Willow is, however, most common in the legs, but least pure in blood ; the white- or blue-legged birds being the true-bred Silver Duck-wings. Eyes should be red in Willow and Blue-legged strains, and yellow in Yellow and White-legged strains in all the Duck-wing Game fowls.
“The Yellow Duck-wings are similar to the above except in the straw-color or birchen tinge and the copper-colored saddle. They have yellow skins and willow or yellow legs. In this variety the cock‘s breast is always black, the hen‘s a pale fawn-color, whilst the silver hen often has a clear mealy or silver breast instead of fawn.
“ Red eyes and willow legs are the only correct colors for prize Duck-wings; bright red eyes and white legs for prize Piles.
“ The color called Piles consists, in the cock, of a bright red piled on a white ground, the hackle being red and white striped ; the back is chiefly red, and the breast mostly white, but often with red markings; the tail should be white, but a few red feathers are not amiss ; black in the tail, as seen in the Worcestershire Piles, is, however, very objectionable. The hens are red-streaked or veined on a white ground, the breast redder than the cock, and the tail white, with a few red. feathers occasionally. The red dest Piles are the best birds, and prize pens should be selected with bright red eyes and white legs.
“ Whites should have bright red eyes, and white legs are essential.
“ Black Game fowls should have black eyes and bluish-black legs. Have won a few cups.
“ Dark Grays ought always to have black eyes and legs. The hens are very dark.
“ The original wild varieties of Game fowls are three: (1) The Black-breasted Red, with fawn- breasted partridge hens; (2) Brown-breasted Reds, with dark legs, and dark brown (not black) hens; and (3) Red-breasted Ginger Reds with yellow legs, and the hens a light partridge-color. These three colors were probably reclaimed at a very early period, and are still found in India as wild birds. From them all the other colors were originally bred; the varieties hatching dark chickens from the brown or dark reds, and all others from the other two sorts. These varieties can be merely named, and are most conveniently classed thus, according to the color of their chickens when hatched :
Light Chickens.
1. Whites.
2. Files.
3. Blue Duns.
4. Red Duns.
Striped Chickens.
5. Black-br. Reds.
6. Red-br. Ginger
Reds.
7. Duck-wings.
8. Yellow Birchens.
9. Mealy Grays.
Dark Chickens.
10. Brown Reds.
11. Dark Grays.
12. Dark Birchens.
13. Black.
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“ There are also four other varieties not gene- rally known, called Red Furnaces, Cuckoos, Span gles and Polecats, making at least seventeen well-defined sorts of Game fowls ; but besides these there are at least twenty-seven named sub- varieties, or forty-four in all. To describe these in detail would be useless, and I shall only, there fore, add the following general remark :
“ The best criterion of blood in all Game fowls is the color of the eyes, a point which has been, strange to say, totally overlooked in every work on poultry hitherto published. Black eyes show dark blood, and the hens of such strains lay white eggs. Red eyes denote red blood, and lay pinkish eggs. Yellow or daw eyes lay yellowish eggs. These last are inferior in spirit to the others. Brown and bay eyes result from cross ing different breeds.
“ The only sorts of much use for fighting are those with black or red eyes, and the three varie ties now usually employed are the Brown- breasted Reds, Dark Grays (which are strongest and hardiest of all), and Black-breasted Reds, with white legs and dark red eyes. The sorts which fight the quickest are, however, the Red Cheshire Piles, with bright red eyes and white legs, the Red-breasted Ginger Reds, with bright red eyes and yellow legs, and Whites, with white legs and bright red eyes ; but they have not quite so much strength and power of endurance. The Black-breasted Reds with willow legs are gene rally too slow and soft for the pit, as are the Blacks also.
“ The best layers are the Black-breasted Reds with willow legs, the hens being partridge-color; and Red Cheshire Piles with white legs. The worst layers are the grays, Dark Grays and Dark Birchens being worst of all. With the exception of these, Game fowls lay remarkably well, and in favorable circumstances will, I believe, surpass any breed. My willow-legged Black-breasted Red hens have averaged from 211 to 284 eggs per annum. To reach this, however, they will require a good run, but if well attended to are always good layers. It is worth remarking that yellow and blue-legged birds generally lay best in all poultry.
“ Game-cock chickens should be shown un- dubbed; but at their first Christmas they become ' stags,’ and should then have their comb and wattles taken neatly and closely off with a very sharp pair of scissors.
“ Different varieties ought not to be crossed, but kept distinct. In breeding either for stock or exhibition, nothing is so necessary as to have a good proportion of cocks. There should be one to every six hens at least; and as in a large yard it is impossible, from their pugnacity, to keep more than one full-grown brood-cock, there
should be a good supply of fine young birds or ‘ stags ‘ kept under him, and breeding with the hens, when all the eggs will be fecundated, and the chicks vigorous and healthy. This is the only way of breeding good stock from a large yard ; and it is of course preferable, when prac ticable, to keep each cock to his own limited family of hens. Pullets ought never to be bred from at all, and should be kept away from the cocks, using their eggs for household purposes. Good old birds will always breed strong chickens, and in this breed it scarcely matters how old they are so long as they remain strong and healthy. The breeding-pens should be selected with great care, not from the largest, but from the best- shaped and strongest birds. The more cock chicks in a brood the better, as it is always an evidence of strength and vigor in the strain ; and the pullets, though fewer, are finer and handsomer birds invariably.
“ Game eggs should not be hatched before the 21st of March nor after the end of May. This breed is of warmer blood and stronger constitu tion than any other, and the chicks consequently hatch earlier, often breaking the shell at the end of the nineteenth day. As soon as they begin to fight, the cocks should be separated, and, if possible, put out to ‘ walk ‘ at a farm; the pullets will rarely injure themselves, and their quarrels are only amusing.”
On the whole, this breed is pronounced the very one for a country gentleman who can give his fowls ample range; and it will in such cir cumstances afford a constant and abundant sup ply of the most delicious eggs and meat to be obtained. Their good laying qualities may also recommend them to the farmer in some locali ties. But they cannot be considered a profitable breed for domestic purposes in general, or to those whose object in poultry-keeping is to sup ply the market with table-birds.
KEEPING AND REARING POULTRY. Hen-Houses.—Until proper housing accommo dation is provided, the sort of prejudice that ex ists with many farmers against poultry, as being more destructive than profitable, is not likely to be removed. Of course, when the fowls have a cold, damp, imperfectly thatched, irregularly cleaned, ill-lighted habitation, and are otherwise inadequately attended to, they do become more a pest than a pleasure or profit, for they stray away, roosting in the cowhouse, the stable, or the cart-sheds, and thus court the hostility alike of the farmer, cattleman, and horseman. Eggs, too, are dropped in nearly every conceivable place
j about the barns, and often not discovered till either rotten or broken. In this carelessly kept
I state the mischievous propensities of the fowls
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are fully demonstrated. During the day they cater the most of their food on the grass and other fields, and about the barns, often doing mischief. Treated in this manner, eggs are com paratively few, and the birds are not so big nor so valuable in any respect.
That poultry can be kept with profit seems undoubted, if the animals are properly treated. One of the primary if not the principal means to this profitable end, however, is unmistakably good house-accommodation; and though hen- houses are rapidly improving, there is still much to accomplish in this direction. The results would amply reward any additional trouble and expense involved by a more speedy substitution of comfortably erected hen-houses for the pitiful sheds still existing in some parts, though happily on the wane. Without clean liness and warmth in the hen-house, any amount of attention otherwise will not realize nearly the maximum profit. Every poultry-house should be well cleaned at least once a week, to free it from vermin, hurtful odors, etc. At farms and other places where a great stock of poultry is kept, a proper house, with separate accommoda tion for the different varieties, should be pro vided. The hen-house should have at least four compartments and a courtyard. The annexed figure exhibits the requisite accommodation: a a, the courtyard; b b, for ducks and geese, the apartment for which is at c, with laying and hatching nests, d; g, the roosting-house for hens and turkeys; e, the hatching- house; and f, the apartment for laying. Each compartment should be provided with a shutter- door, which must be closed every night. If, through inattention, the hen-house should be come tainted, the health of its inmates will be greatly endangered. A new site should be chosen, and another house erected, or fumigation resorted to. Care should be taken in the selec tion of the site to have it on a dry, sloping piece of ground, with a southern exposure, and well sheltered. Ventilation, light and warmth ought never to be lost sight of in the construction of these houses. Into the more modern poultry- houses steam heating-pipes have been intro duced, which admit of the hatching of chickens early in spring very successfully, and keep the hens in laying trim over the most of winter. The enhanced price of eggs in winter, and the advan tage of getting chickens early into the market, are declared by those who have experience to repay fully the cost of the artificial heating. The roof should be quite weather-tight, as poultry never thrive when exposed either to cold draughts or
Fig. i.
moisture. The interior should be at least six feet high, for the convenience of the person who cleans the house. The perches should be placed so that the fowls on the top row may not be im mediately above those on the second, and so on; a hen-ladder must be provided, but this, like the roosts, should not be too high, as fowls are apt to injure themselves by flying from lofty perches. The floors should be strewn with sand or dry earth, and swept clean every day: those sweep- ings will be found most useful for the garden. The door should be kept open in fine weather for the sake of ventilation; it should also have a hole at the bottom, with a sliding panel. The laying-boxes require frequent washing
Fig. 2.—Poultry-Pen.
with hot lime-water inside, to free them from vermin, which greatly torment the sitting hens. For the same purpose, poultry should always have a heap of dry sand or fine ashes laid under some covered place or shady tree, near the yard, to dust themselves in, this being their resource for getting rid of the vermin with which they are annoyed. The poultry-yard should contain some lime in a dry mortar state, of which the fowls eat a little. It is necessary for the for mation of the egg-shell. If possible, also, the yard should include a patch of grassland.
Fig. 2 represents a section of a range of pens for the exhibition of poultry of the various kinds,
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constructed on the principle of showing all the I animals of the same species under the same light, and the same conditions generally. The suit of ground-compartments is adapted for geese, ducks, turkeys, rabbits; the next stage is for gallinaceous fowls of the various breeds; and the upper stage is provided with a perch for pigeons, and might also be used for dwarf-fowls. It is a French design.
Feeding.—Most persons are doubtless aware that fowls swallow food without mastication. That process is rendered unnecessary by the provision of a crop, an organ which is somewhat similar to the first stomach of the cow, and in which the food from the gullet is macerated, and partly dissolved by secreted fluids. From the crop the food passes downward into a second small cavity, where it is partly acted on by a digestive juice; and finally it is transferred to the gizzard, or last stomach, which is furnished with muscular and cartilaginous linings of very great strength. In the gizzard the partially softened food is triturated, and converted into a thin paste, fit to be received into the chyle-gut, and finally absorbed into the circulation. Such is the power of the gizzard in almost all kinds of poultry, that hollow globes of glass are reduced in it to fine powder in a few hours. The most rough and jagged bodies do no injury to the coats of the gizzard. Spallanzani even intro duced a ball of lead, with twelve strong needles so fixed in it that their points projected a fourth of an inch from the surface, and the result was that all the needles, with the exception of one or two, were ground down in a short time to the surface of the ball, while those left were re duced to mere stumps. To add to the tritu rating powers of the gizzard, fowls are gifted with the faculty of swallowing gravel with their food.
Fowls, when left to roam at large, pick up all sorts of seeds, grains, worms, larvæ of insects, or any other edible substances they can discover, either on the surface of the ground or by scrap ing. They also pick a little grass as a stomachic. The more that hens can be allowed to run about to gather their food, provided always their housing is good and supplementary feeding judicious, the better for their health and for the pockets of the owner. It has been demonstrated that some of the more fashionable breeds will turn out remunerative even when kept in com parative confinement and fed artificially; but this process requires the strictest attention to character of the diet, and considerable skill in the produce of poultry.
Going at large over a farm, the fowls at certain seasons damage some kinds of crops, and in con sequence the number of birds fed in large yards
regularly, in comparative confinement, especially about the larger farms, is gradually increasing.
In a state of domestication, the hard food of which fowls seem most fond are peas, barley, oats, etc.; and besides a proportion of these, they may be given crumbs of bread, lumps of boiled potatoes, not too cold, cabbage, turnips chopped small, etc. They are much pleased to pick a bone ; the pickings warm them, and excite their laying propensities. If they can be supplied with caterpillars, worms or maggots, the same end will be served. Any species of animal food, however, should be administered sparingly; and the staple articles of diet must always be of a vegetable nature. They should be fed three times a day. When wanted for the table, the quantity of food may be increased, and be more substantial; they should also be kept more with in the coop, and as quiet as possible. A fort nights feeding in this way will bring a fowl of a good breed up to a plump condition. The flavor of the chicken on the table will be en riched by feeding for ten days or so with oat and barley meal, and with a little sweet milk to drink. To be valuable in the nest, or on the table, none of those fashionably bred, early matured fowls should be kept longer than two years, though many, indeed most, of the old barn-door birds are kept with advantage longer.
The duties of hen-wife should be discharged constantly by one and the same person, as the voice and presence of a stranger scare the fowls, and disturb the operations of the hen-house. The profits of the poultry department are very often considerably lessened by a breach of the above rule, by intrusting the duties of the hen- wife to perhaps, in the case of a large growing family, half a dozen different individuals in one day, and occasionally to mere urchins.
Laying.—The ordinary productiveness of the hen is truly astonishing, as it usually lays, in the course of a year, 200 eggs, provided it has not un natural confinement, is well fed, and has a plenti- ful supply of water. Instances have been known of hens laying 300 in a year. This is a singular provision in nature, and it would appear to have been intended peculiarly for the use of man, as the hen usually incubates only once in a year, or at most twice. Few hens are capable of hatching more than from twelve to fifteen eggs ; so that, allowing they were all to sit twice a year, and bring out fifteen at a time, there would still be at least 170 spare eggs for the use of man. It is therefore evident that, in situations where hens have comparative freedom, are well fed, and otherwise carefully attended, they must prove very profitable. As the number of eggs which are annually brought out by a hen bear no pro- portion to the number which she lays, schemes—
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to be subsequently noticed—have been imagined to hatch all the eggs of a hen, and thus turn her produce to the greatest advantage ; so that, in place of twelve or fourteen chickens, upward of 2oo may be raised from the annual produce of a single fowl.
Hens will lay eggs which have received no im pregnation, but from these, as a matter of course, no hatching can take place; they are equally good, however, for eating. When the chief ob ject is to breed chickens, a cock should be allowed to walk with ten or twelve hens; but when eggs are principally required, the number of hens may be from fifteen to twenty. En deavor to procure a cock of a good breed, not game, and let him be in his prime, which is at eighteen months to two years old. Cocks will last two years, after which they lose their live liness of colors, and become languid, inactive, and mere consumers of food. It is fit, therefore, that younger cocks should then take their place in the poultry-yard. Crowing hens should be re jected, as worthless layers.
If left to themselves, hens produce not more than two broods a year. Early spring, and, after a cessation, the end of summer, are the two seasons in which they begin naturally to lay. In the depth of winter, under ordinary circum stances, hens very rarely lay eggs, though, by artificial means, as already explained, they can be made to do so. If the temperature of the place where they are kept be raised by a stove, or otherwise, they will produce eggs. The fowls of the Irish peasantry, and of some of the High land Scotch cottars, which are usually kept in the cabins of the owners, lay often in winter, in consequence of the warmth of their quarters. The fecundity of hens varies considerably. Some lay but once in three days, others every second day, and others every day. In order to induce laying, each hen should have its own nest, or nearly so, made with soft straw or heather, and furnished with a piece of chalk as a decoy or nest-egg. The signs which indicate when a hen is about to lay are well known. She cackles frequently, walks restlessly about, and shows a brighter redness in her comb and wat tles. After the process of laying is over, she utters a series of loud and peculiar notes, to which the other fowls usually respond. Shortly after the egg is laid, it should be removed, for the heat of the hen soon corrupts it. When the eggs are taken away by the poultry-keeper, they should immediately be laid in a cool and dry place. If allowed to absorb damp, they soon spoil; indeed, one drop of water upon the shell quickly taints the whole egg. When the hens lay in a secret corner or covert, the keeper may sometimes discover it by placing a few grains of
salt in the oviduct, which hurries on the process of laying, and causes the animal to retire to the spot anew.
Various methods have been tried to prevent the absorption of air through the shell, and pre serve the freshness of the eggs. Some keep them secluded from the air in bran, rye, or ashes, which may do very well where the eggs are to be kept in this way till eaten, but is utterly useless if quantities of them have to be sent to market. If the eggs are gently rubbed with fresh butter when newly laid, they will keep perfectly, and be as fresh for breakfast three months afterward as when newly dropped. Mr. Mollison says he has found the following, with less trouble, to answer the purpose even better, namely: “ Place them in a water-tight cask, the small end of the egg down, and keep the whole always covered with a strong solution of lime-water.”
Hatching.—When eggs are to be hatched, it is necessary to pay attention to the choice of pro per ones for the purpose. Those too much pointed at the ends should not be selected. The eggs must also be fresh ; from the time they are laid, they should lie aside in a cool place. It is said to be possible to ascertain, from the appear ance of the egg, whether the forthcoming pro geny is to be male or female ; but this is doubt less a delusion. When eggs are left to be brought forth by the hen, a certain number are placed under her in the nest, when she is in the full inclination to sit. From nine to fourteen eggs are placed, according to the extent of the breast and wings; and the time required for hatching is about twenty-one days. Sometimes a hen will desert her eggs, a circumstance which may occasionally be traced to an uncomfortable condition of the skin, caused by vermin or want of cleanliness; and this affords a strong reason for keeping the hen-house clean, and giving the animals the means of purifying their feathers. Occasionally the hen is vicious, or, in short, a bad sitter, and experience in pitching on the best hatching-hen is the only remedy. Some times a hen will break her eggs with her feet; and in such cases the broken eggs must be re moved as soon as observed, otherwise she may eat them, and from that be tempted to break and eat the sound ones, and thus spoil the whole.
It has generally been found that hens which are the best layers are the worst sitters. Those best adapted have short legs, a broad body, large wings, well furnished with feathers, their nails and spurs not too long or sharp. The desire to sit is made known by a particular sort of cluck ing note, and a feverish state ensues, in which the natural heat of the hen‘s body is very much increased. The inclination, or, as physiologists term it, the storge, soon becomes a strong and
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ungovernable passion. The hen flutters about, hangs her wings, bristles up her feathers, searches everywhere for eggs to sit upon ; and if she finds any, whether laid by herself or others, she im mediately seats herself upon them, and continues the incubation.
With a proper provision of food at hand, warmth, quiet and dryness, a good hatching-hen will give little trouble, and in due time the brood will come forth; one or two eggs may perhaps remain unhatched or addled, but their loss is of little consequence. As soon as the hen hears the chirp of her young, she has a tendency to walk off with them, leaving the unhatched eggs to their fate. It is therefore advisable to watch the birth of the chicks, and to remove each as soon as it becomes dry, which may be in a few hours afterward. By this means the hen will sit to hatch the whole ; yet she should not be wearied by too long sitting. If all the eggs are not hatched at the end of twelve or fifteen hours after the first chick makes its appearance, in all probability they are addled, and may be aban doned. It is a good arrangement to “ set” two or more hens at the same time, so that in the event of only some half-dozen chickens from each nest, two broods can be taken charge of by one hen.
The chicks must be kept warm the first day or two. The food given to the young chicks should be split grits, which they require no teaching to pick up; afterward, the ordinary food of the poultry-yard, or what the mother dis covers for their use, is sufficient. Some give the yelks of hard-boiled eggs or curd when a nourish ing diet seems advisable. The extreme solicitude of the hen for her young, or the brood which may be imposed upon her, is well known. She leads them about in quest of food, defends them by violent gesticulations and the weapons which Nature has given her, calls them around her by a peculiar low clucking cry, and gathers them carefully under her wings, to shelter them from danger, or to keep them warm at night. This maternal care is bestowed as long as the chickens require her assistance ; as soon as they can shift for themselves, the mutual attachment ceases, and all knowledge of each other is very speedily lost. The young now go to roost, and the mother again begins to lay. Young hens, usually called pullets, begin to lay early in the spring after they are hatched. As heat is all that is necessary to develop the chick in the egg, eggs may be hatched artificially, without the intervention of the hen. The art has long been practiced in Egypt, and has since been adopted in many other quarters, but with indifferent success.
Where Purity of Breed is of importance, as when fowls are to be exhibited in prize competitions,
great care must be taken to keep the different kinds perfectly separate; otherwise intermixture to a certain extent is not undesirable. It is always, indeed, to be desired that each good kind be kept pure and in as great perfection as pos sible, for improvement of the stock. But even in a small poultry-house it is desirable to have different kinds, some being particularly estimable for their flesh, some for the abundance and quality of their eggs, some for their disposition to incubate, etc. For web-footed birds, free access to water is required ; but some of the kinds are well enough provided for by a pretty capacious trough.
Capons.—By removing the reproductive and oviparous organs from the male and hen chick ens respectively, a great change is produced in them as regards voice and habits, and they can be made remarkably fat for the table. Fowls thus operated on are called capons, and can be trained to watch chickens, hatch eggs, and do many useful offices of the poultry-yard. Upon the whole, however, the special benefit derived from rearing capons does not counterbalance the trouble which they give, and the danger of the primary operation ; and the consequence is that the number of capons is decreasing.
Hens for Raising Eggs.—Hens to supply the table with eggs should be purchased in the j spring, and care should be taken to procure young, healthy birds not over 18 months old. An old hen may readily be detected by her horny-looking legs, and her comb and wattles will look dry, not fresh as in young birds. If the hens be sound, they will almost immediately begin to lay, and continue until they molt in the autumn if they be well taken care of. When ever a hen shows a desire to sit she must be pre vented. A good plan is to invert a small cask, of which the head has been removed, upon three bricks. A hole being bored near the top for ventilation, this will make a capital pen for a “ broody” hen, the food and water being placed just under the rim. A few days’ confinement will take away all desire to sit from almost any hens but Cochins, which should not be kept on that account under the circumstances we are considering ; and in about a fortnight the fowl, if not older than we have recommended, will be gin to lay again.
Directly these hens stop laying in the autumn, and before they have lost condition by molting, they should, unless Hamburgs or Brahmas, be either killed or sold off, and replaced by pullets hatched in March or April, which will have molted early. These again, still supposing proper food and good housing, will all be pro ducing eggs by November at furthest, and con tinue more or less. They may then either be
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disposed of, and replaced as before, or, as they will not stop laying very long, the best of them may be retained till the autumn, when they must be got rid of. For if fowls be kept for eggs, it is essential to success that every autumn the stock be replaced with pullets hatched early in the spring. By no other means can eggs at this season be relied upon, and the poultry-keeper must remember that it is the winter which deter mines whether he shall gain or lose by his stock ; in summer, if only kept moderately clean, hens will pay for themselves treated almost anyhow. The only exception to this rule is in the case of Cochins, Brahmas or Hamburgs, which will lay through the winter up to their second or even third year.
The stock to be selected, if a pure strain be chosen, are Hamburg or Spanish; either, in favorable circumstances, will give a plentiful supply of eggs, and give no trouble on the score of sitting propensities. The Spanish lays five or six very large eggs a week in spring and summer, but is not a hardy or free-laying breed for winter, and must have a warm aspect and perfect shelter from wind if the supply is to be kept up. Ham- burgs are tolerably hardy, and are capital winter layers ; they also produce more eggs in a year than any other breed, laying almost every day except when molting, and never wanting to sit; but the eggs are rather small. More than four or five Hamburgs should not be put in a shed, and they must be kept scrupulously clean.
Diseases of Poultry. — Among the diseases of poultry, gapes, is one which very frequently de mands attention, particularly in young chickens. Pip or roup is another. Some of the maladies which cut off great numbers of young chickens, and still more of turkey-poults, may be in a great measure prevented by supplying abundance of nourishing and sufficiently varied food with water and lime; and by preventing the young birds, particularly turkeys, from getting among wet grass.
DUCKS.
Ducks on the Farm.—Every year ducks are be coming more popular, and are receiving more and more attention, from the fact that, first, they are more easily reared than any other farm-birds ; second, their feathers are valuable; third, the eggs and young ducks find ready sale in the mar kets; and fourth, the ducklings are the most active and indefatigable insect-hunters known. Market-gardeners who knew their value in this last respect would raise them if only as insect- destroyers in the fields.
Best Varieties for the Farm.—Where the princi pal objects are flesh and feathers, the white breeds are to be preferred ; but where flesh only
is sought after, the Rouen and the Black Cay- uga will be found satisfactory. As insect-de- stroyers, the Rouen ducklings rank highest among the large breeds, and the young of the common gray among the smaller. The Mus covy breed has really little in its favor but size, and even in this respect the Rouen, the Cayuga and the Aylesbury can compete with it, and are far superior as table-birds.
The Common White Duck is too well known to need description. It is not unlike the Aylesbury, except in size. The breed has fallen into disre pute since the introduction of the larger breeds, and is now seldom found pure.
The Aylesbury is the best of all the English breeds, and one of the most useful species intro duced into the United States. They are not as heavy as the Rouen, but 18 pounds per pair is not uncommon. They are good layers, the eggs of pure white and thin in the shell. The Ayles- bury is prone to fall down behind through the stretching of the abdominal muscles, and care should be taken in breeding to avoid such birds. When ducks are thus disabled they become ster ile, and should be killed and dressed for market.
Rouen and Aylesbury Ducks.
Rouen Ducks.—The name of this breed would imply that they originated in the French town Rouen, but there is no evidence to that effect, and the term is probably a corruption of Roan duck. This variety evidently sprang from the Mallard or Gray duck, which in color and markings it closely resembles. The eyes, how ever, are more deeply sunken, and the ducks have the disability of the Aylesburys of soon falling down behind, the abdominal protuberance being early developed.
Black Cayuga.—This variety, of whose origin nothing is positively known, has been bred about Cayuga Lake for many years, and is one of the most celebrated of American breeds. They rarely rise from the water, and when on land seldom wander far, being too clumsy. They are rusty black, with a white band about the neck and white flecks on the breast; the drakes
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generally have more white than the ducks, and the green tinge on head and neck is much more pronounced. In breeding select the dark est males, since they incline to breed white. They are prolific in eggs, laying from 80 to 90 in a season when well fed. The birds are hardy, and the flesh excellent, dark and high-flavored. If well fattened, they will weigh at six to eight months old from 12 to 14 pounds, and 16 pounds is not unusual. Being essentially a water-duck, they can only be profitably bred near lakes, ponds and streams.
The Muscovy—called also Musk, or Brazilian— ducks are large and handsome, the drakes fre quently weighing 10 pounds and more. The color is a rich dark blue-black, with a white bar on each wing and more or less white about the head and neck. In the drake the feathers in the back are fine and plumy; the legs and feet are dark. But, as we said above, they have little to recommend them but their size, and they are neither hardy nor good layers. A characteristic by which they may readily be distinguished is the red membrane surrounding the eyes and cover ing the cheeks.
A Word of Caution.—It should be remembered in keeping ducks that the wild birds are mono gamous, and not more than two or three given to one drake, if eggs are wanted for sitting. The duck usually sits well, and always covers her eggs with loose straw when leaving them, a sup ply of which should therefore be left by her. The usual number laid is fifty or sixty; but ducks have laid as many as two hundred and fifty in one year ; and we believe with care this faculty might be greatly developed, and their value much increased as producers of eggs. At present they are mostly kept for table.
GEESE.
The two principal breeds of domesticated geese are the Gray or Toulouse and the White or Embden, concerning which we quote from an Eng lish authority:
“ We very much prefer the Gray or Toulouse to the White or Embden, being larger and hand somer. We have had a Toulouse gander which weighed thirty-four pounds, a weight never, we are sure, attained by the White breed. They are also better shaped, as a rule, and every way the more profitable variety. The forehead should be flat, and the bill a clear orange-red. The plu mage is a rich brown, passing into white on the under parts and tail-coverts.
“ The Embden goose is pure white in every feather, and the eye should show a peculiar blue color in the iris in all well-bred birds.
“ We should recommend for market to cross the Toulouse goose with the White, by which
greater weight is gained than in either variety purebred ; but much will depend upon circum stances. White or cross-bred geese require a pond, but the Toulouse, with a good grass run, will do well with only a trough of water, and will
require no extra feeding, except for fattening or exhibition.”
The only foreign varieties requiring mention are the Chinese and the Canada geese, both of which appear to be really midway between the geese proper and the swans, which they resemble in length of neck.
The Chinese goose is of a general brown color, passing into light gray or white on the breast, with a dark brown stripe down the back of the neck. The voice is very harsh and peculiar. This breed is not a good grazer, and is best reared in the farmyard.
The Canada goose also is not a good grazer, and does best near marshy ponds, in which cir cumstances they will thrive and be found profi table.
General Management.—With regard to the gen eral management of geese little need be said. Not more than four or five should be allowed to one gander, and such a family will require a house about eight feet square; but to secure fine stock three geese are better to one male. Each nest must be about two feet six inches square, and, as the goose will always lay where she has deposited her first egg, there must be a nest for each bird. If they each lay in a separate nest, the eggs may be left; otherwise they should be removed daily.
Geese should be set in March or early April, as it is very difficult to rear the young in hot weather. The time is thirty to thirty-four days. The goose sits very steadily, but should be in duced to come off daily and take a bath. Be sides this she should have in reach a good supply of food and water, or hunger will compel her, one by one, to eat all her eggs. The gander is usually kept away; but this is not very needful,
286
THE FRIEND OF ALL.
as he not only has no enmity to the eggs or goslings, but takes very great interest in the hatching, often sitting by his mate for hours.
The goslings should be allowed to hatch out entirely by themselves. When put out, they should have a fresh turf daily for a few days, and be fed on boiled oatmeal and rice, with water from a pond, in a very shallow dish, as they should not be allowed to swim for a fortnight, for which time the goose is better kept under a very large crate. After two weeks they will be able to shift for themselves, only requiring to be protected from very heavy rain till fledged, and to have one or two feeds of grain daily, in ad dition to what they pick up.
For fattening they should be penned up half a dozen together in a dark shed and fed on barley meal, being let out several hours for a last bath before being killed, in order to clean their feathers.
TURKEYS.
The turkey has been domesticated for nearly three hundred years, yet still retains some of its wild habits, doubtless due to the fact that it will bear confinement less than any of the domestic land-birds. All varieties of turkeys, whether wild or domestic, breed together and continue fertile, proving that they had a common origin. Nearly every color is represented among them, black-bronzed and white-mottled being the original wild color. Some of the sub-species are the Common turkey; Black-and-white mot tled ; Black-bronzed; Mexican; White; Buff;
Common Turkey.
Fawn-colored ; Copper-colored ; Particolored. Of these
The Black-Bronzed—said to have been produced by a cross of the Wild turkey upon the Common- turkey hen and improved by subsequent careful selection and breeding—is the largest, as it is the best, of the domestic varieties. They are hardy and of beautiful plumage, and will weigh when.
mature, for average birds, about 30 pounds, while 40 has sometimes been reached by extra male birds.
The Common Turkeys are the most profitable to breed where only dollars and cents are con cerned, as they are hardy, of medium size, little inclined to wander, and mature early. At eight months old they will weigh when fattened from 10 to 12 pounds, and at maturity 16 and even 18, In color they are white and black mottled, hav ing the head and wattle of the wild turkey.
English Turkeys, so called, are merely a sub- variety of the common American turkey, but careful breeding and selection have increased the size and rendered them quite uniform in color.
A Few Hints are here given to those who desire to raise turkeys. Turkey-cocks may be used for breeding at two years of age, and a hen at one year. The hen who is to sit should be good- sized, while the cock should have good shape and strength. The hen will lay an immense number of eggs. For this reason the first seven or eight eggs laid may be taken and put under a common hen ; the turkey-hen will then have as many as she can well cover. May and June are the best months for hatching. The hen is very constant in her sitting, and she must be watched or she will not leave the nest to get her own food. She must also be kept quiet. Young turkeys are hatched in about 26 days, and as a usual thing they are very stupid about learning to feed. To help them two hen's eggs are often hatched with them, being put under the turkey three days later ; and as the chickens will come out about the same time as the turkeys, they will very soon teach them how to eat. The food is much the same as for chickens; a little dandelion mixed with boiled eggs is found very beneficial, as it corrects the tendency to diarrhea which all young turkeys have. Great care must be taken of the young birds until they are 9 or 10 weeks old, when they will begin to “put out the red,” as it is called, or to develop the singular red excrescences on the neck so characteristic of the turkey breed. This process will last some little time, and when completed the birds will be pretty fully fledged. They are now hardy, but must not be too suddenly exposed to rain or cold winds. Take some reasonable care of them for a while longer, and very soon they will have be come the hardiest birds known in the poultry- yard, braving with impunity the fiercest storms, and even preferring, if permitted, to roost on high trees through the depth of winter. In fact, turkeys will rarely roost in a fowl-house; and a very high open shed should therefore be provided.
To attain great size, animal food and good feeding generally must be supplied from the first.
POULTRY.
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ARTIFICIAL POULTRY RAISING.
The saving of eggs is the first thing, and should be carefully attended to. First, handle with great care, and do not allow them to be too much shaken up. Secondly, place the eggs on end, and turn each egg twice a day. Then, when you have a sufficient number, place them in the incubator.
The Phenomenon of incubation has two principal factions controlling it, i. e., warmth and fresh air. Warmth being the stimulant to vital action of the germ, and pure air gives the oxygen necessary to make the chemical changes.
As to the proper lamp, only the safety lamp must be used. This should be made of an upper and lower chamber : the upper for the flame, and the lower for the wick. The mois ture pan is now done away with in the modern incubators, and the machine supplies it itself.
How to Use Incubator.—When you have the right number of eggs in an incubator to suit you, place the eggs in the egg tray, then light the lamp and regulate, keeping the temperature at 1020. When lighting the lamp, turn up but a moderate flame and heat the incubator first. Then put the tray in the incubator when your temperature is reg ulated. After the second day the eggs must be turned twice a day. The unfertile eggs and dead germs should be tested. Always mark doubtful eggs and test again later.
In testing eggs, the simple method is a round telescope arrangement, at one end of which you place the egg and look through this tube, holding the egg at the further end and next to the light; then look through the egg at the light; if the egg is dark, it ought to have a chick, if clear, it is not fertile and it may be put back with the fresh eggs.
The room in which the incubator stands should be above ground, dry and well ventilated.
The Chicks.—About the twentieth day the chick has used up the entire nutriment in the shell, and being vigorous, wants to get out. The shell breaks first at the large end, being less moist and more brittle, and the head of the chick is turned there for air. The beak breaks through the shell on find ing more air, and soon gets its freedom.
The chick starts in life with food enough for 36 hours, and should not be fed during that time, but should be kept dry and warm. To do this, the brooder is the best, hence we will turn to the brooder.
The Brooder.—The brooder should be kept at a heat of from 80 to 90 degrees; though the chick will run out into the cold, he must have a place to run into which is warm.
The best thermometer for the brooder is the chicks themselves ; if it is too hot they will scatter and sleep near the entrance; if too cold, they will
crowd together; and this crowding together with low temperature means bowel disease invariably as a result. Care in this is very necessary. The chick should for the first month have but little space out side the mother, giving it more range as it grows older.
Do not keep more than fifty chicks in a pen, and do not put chicks hatched by hen with incubator chicks, as one lousy chick will soon give vermin to the whole brood. Clean brooders daily, and if necessary, paint with kerosene to kill lice.
Feeding.—Chicks, like mature birds, have giz zards for grinding their food, and this fact would in sure giving them hard food ; but the best possible food for the first week is hard boiled eggs, chopped up fine, shells and all, mixed with bread-crumbs. But first of all, do not overfeed. After the first ten days, wheat screenings, millet and cracked corn, Indian pudding, bran mash, oatmeal, and corn meal scalded with boiling water. A dish of crushed charcoal and bone meal is good.
Chicks need, too, good fresh water, food rich in nitrogen for muscle and bone, carbonaceous mat ter to make them fat and plump. At an age of two months, the birds ought to weigh two pounds.
Early Broilers.—If early broilers are to be raised, a large house divided into pens, six or eight feet wide, with runs outside the same width, and about twelve feet long, is the best method. Here brood ers can be placed, and when the chickens are old enough these can be removed.
A dirt floor in this house is advisable, as rats are liable to infest a board-floored house. The chickens should be kept here until ready for market. But if kept during the winter, they ought to be allowed to run or to be kept in coops which can be moved from place to place. It is a fact that chickens confined after April do not do as well as though allowed to run. If confined longer, they drop off and lose appetite.
Dont's.—Don't overfeed with too much animal food; the lack of grit gives crop-bound and bowel trouble.
Don't let the water get dirty. Don't be afraid of green food. Don‘t hatch late, i.e., in June and July. Don‘t crowd the quarters, only allow those in a
coop that can roost there. Don‘t feed warm food in summer. Don‘t fail to provide shade.
Prize Birds.—It is always well to keep fine birds; they are no more expensive than common ones, and every farmer should have one or two prize breeds, and take none else and keep these separate. He derives a twofold benefit. He can put them in the shows and get his premium money, and can thus have a chance to sell his birds at high prices. Sec ondly, he can sell the eggs for sitting purposes, get ting thus fancy prices.
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