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SHEEP AND THEIR DISEASES.
Arsenic Bath......... 263
Care of Ewes, The......• 255
Choice of Ram......... 255
Classes and Grades of Wool .... 261
Diseases of Sheep...... . 261
Catarrh.......... 261
Choking.......... 261
Cotted Wool......... 261
Colic........... 261
Fermentation of the Stomach . . . 262
Grub in the Head....... 261
Hoof Rot.......... 261
Diseases of Sheep:
Inflammation of the Eyes .... 262
Poisoning.......... 262
Scab........... 262
Sore Lips.......... 263
Ticks and Lice........ 263
Disowning Lambs....... 256
Docking Lambs........ 257
Fattening Lambs ........ 257
Feeding Lambs........ 257
Fences........... 259
General Management of Sheep . . . 255
Kinds of Sheep ........ 255
Quarters for Sheep ....... 259
Rearing a Lamb by Hand ..... 256
Resuscitating Chilled Lambs .... 257
Selection of Ewes........ 255
Salt for Sheep ......... 259
Shearing the Sheep ....... 259
Sheep Ranches ........ 261
Tying and Packing Wool ..... 261
Water Supply for Sheep..... 259
Weaning Lambs ........ 257
General Management of Sheep. — The selection of the breed depends entirely upon the. section of the country in which they are intended to be kept, and for the amount of attention which is to be paid to them. The more hearty and vigorous breeds are best adapted to the extremes of climate and scanty pasturage; those of a more delicate nature will serve better and will be found more profitable in temperatures better suited to their natures.
Let a farmer, in making his choice, study the char acteristics of each breed, then take into considera tion the conditions and circumstances governing his own locality, his object in the enterprise, and let him be governed by his own purpose.
One of the most important phases of raising sheep is the supplying of early lambs to the market, and this is a very profitable enterprise where one's local ity is near a city and one has easy access to a market.
Choice of Ram. — It is perhaps unnecessary to say that a ram of any breed should not be used for at least a year and a half, as most people know that he is at his best between the age of three and six. He should be a strong, healthy and robust fellow, with fine form, and should be as perfect for his kind, as possible. The main dependence of a farmer in the breeding of his stock lies in his choice of a ram. The best results can be obtained by securing a
choice animal and by placing a limited number of ewes in the pen with him. It is not at all well to allow the buck to run with the flock, especially if the flock is large ; it being far better to keep him away and allow him to run with only a portion at a time. By judicious management in this way, one can obtain three times as much use from him as though he ran with the entire flock all of the time.
Selection of Ewes. — Only the best of ewes should be kept and the old should be yearly thinned out and killed for mutton. Let each person select his best ewe lambs and keep them for breeding pur poses, using, when the time comes, only a proper bred buck, and thus a flock may be built up sur prisingly fine. No ewe should bring forth her first lamb younger than two years old, and a great many breeders prefer that the ewe should be three years old, as the lambs then will be a great deal stronger, larger and more vigorous. Ewes on the other hand ought not to breed after they are seven years of age, but there are exceptions to this rule.
The Care of Ewes. — A liberal amount of food should be given to the ewes while they have little lambs, as this will greatly increase the rigor and size of their young, and without food, no animal can reach its maximum development. That man who thinks that by not feeding his flock with proper food, or by underfeeding them, that he is making
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money, is entirely mistaken, but rather than that, he is losing money each and every day; by this we do not wish to have the farmer overfeed his animals, but to give them a sufficient quantity to keep them in first-Class condition.
It is always well to see that your sheep receive kind and gentle treatment, and that they become as tame as possible, for those that are not tamed are not as profit able as those that are, and the caring for the former is more arduous. As it is time for the young lambs to make their appearance those animals which are the most forward should be separated from the rest of the flock and put in a warm, dry place, a stable in a cold climate, or in the warmer climates, a shed. In this way it is more easy to take care of them, and they can have more careful at tention. For a few days after lambing, the ewe should be fed on roots, which clears the system, thus strengthening her; but after a week or more has passed other food may be given by which they may gain in flesh. Lambs are born in about five months, or practically from one hun dred and forty-five to one hundred and sixty-one days, the average being about one hundred and fifty-four days. A great many think that the average is one hundred and forty-eight days.
If a flock is in a cold climate the lambs make their appearance earlier, and care should be given them to pre vent them from being chilled.
Yet if the ewe owns the lamb, it will generally get well even under unsuitable conditions in from three to four days. The ewe in most cases laps the lamb dry and things follow in their natural order. However, if the mother refuse to pay this attention to her lamb, it should be carefully cared for by being wiped dry with a piece of old flannel and shown how to get his meals. It often requires a great deal of patience, but as in everything else, time will accomplish it. The udder should not be allowed to be caked, and they should be treated in the same way as cattle, that is, they should be milked.
When there is a deficiency of milk in the case of the ewe, or the mother dies, the lamb may be given to a young heifer just coming into milk, or it can be supplied from the surplus of another ewe. Milk given to a lamb should never be scalded, only slightly warm.
Disowning Lambs.—Sometimes the ewe will disown her offspring, and this is a cause of considerable trouble to the farmer; if this be the case, the lamb and its mother should be put in a dark pen and left by themselves. However, if this does not accomplish the result the lamb should be made to get its food, some one being required to hold the ewe and another person holding the lamb while this is being accomplished. After this has been tried for several times the ewe will in most cases own the lamb.
Young lambs require food often, and should be fed at least from six to eight times during the day.
Rearing a Lamb by Hand.—This is the cause of great trouble and hardly pays in the long run, especially if your flock of sheep is large. Yet, if it is to be done the lamb should be fed from six to eight times a day, and it
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should be fed on milk from a cow that has recently had a calf; it may be fed with a spoon, and later on it can be taught to drink from a basin by putting the finger in the mouth and allowing it to suck the finger, and then by placing his head in the basin. The only trouble in this is to know how much to feed the young lamb, as there is as much danger in overfeeding as from underfeeding.
Lambs raised by hand on a farm, generally be come the pets of the household.
Resuscitating Chilled Lambs.—When lambs have been in a place that is cold, and have become chilled and stiff and look as though they were dead, they can generally be brought around by the following methods which have been found to be of very great value. The lamb should be put into a tub of warm water, immersing him in it up to his head. The water should be about ninety degrees, if it is warmer than this it would be harmful; then hold the lamb's head with one hand out of the water, and with the other rub the body of the lamb, especially the legs, briskly. In a short time add some hot water, continue rubbing. Continue adding warm water until it moves its legs, puts out its tongue and shows at least some signs of life. When the sign appears, take it immediately from the water and rub it very dry, allowing the water to drain off; then wrap an old flannel around it, place the lamb in a basket and put it in a warm place. As soon as possible, without exposure, give it to the mother again, making sure that it is thoroughly dry and able to stand. If, however, it should ap pear weak and unable to stand, give it an occa sional rubbing on the outside, and a drop of whisky or brandy on the inside in a teaspoonful of new milk.
Docking Lambs.—This appears sometimes to be a very cruel treatment, yet it is essential to the com fort and welfare of the sheep, as a long tail is a source of great filth as well as of great detriment to the flock. Docking should be done the first few weeks of the lamb's life, provided the lambs be strong and healthy; it should not be done how ever, when the weather is very hot or very cold : in cold, the stumps will not heal well; in warm, the flies will be troublesome. The best manner of doing it is to take the lambs on a dry cold day, and in the morning before the lambs have heated their blood by exercise; let one person hold the lamb, while another does the docking; lay the tail on a plank of wood, let the person that holds the lamb draw the skin as close to the body as pos sible, then let the operator take a broad thin sharp chisel, place it between the joints about two inches from the body, strike the tail off with one blow. The skin, which the holder has pressed towards the body, thus relaxes and slips over the portion that has been cut, thus forming a covering for it. The Cut will soon heal itself. I
If, however, the farmer uses a knife instead of a chisel, the tail, should be cut upward rather than downward. To aid in healing the wound, and to prevent flies and other insects, some people have used one part of tar to four parts of lard. Turpen tine may be used and is thought very fine by some. Care, however, should be taken when the lambs have been docked not to expose them to the I cold.
Feeding Lambs.—In feeding lambs it should be remembered as we have before said that they should be well fed whether they are for market or for breed ing purposes. The reasons for this are obvious. Those lambs which are to be raised for breeding purposes should run with the mother until about four months old, and should be given rowen hay and fresh water besides the food they get from the mother. When they are about a month old they can be fed with bran, oatmeal and corn meal.
Fattening Lambs.—In fattening lambs, give them from a pint and a half to a quart and a half of meal in addition to the food of the mother. Feed ing these lambs should be kept up until they are to be taken to market; in feeding for breeding pur poses, the effect of their food is easily seen in the quality and texture of the wool. If the food has been insufficient, the wool will be harsh and lack the oiliness which is seen in well-fed lambs and sheep; and if the food has been irregular, the wool will be varied and liable to break in places.
Weaning Lambs.—Lambs are generally allowed to run with their mother from three to five months, but this period tries upon the vitality of the sheep, and it is better for the lambs to depend upon other food.
It is always well to separate the lambs and the ewes as far as possible from each other so that they may not hear each others bleatings. The lamb should be fed on more dainty food — better food to make up for the loss of the milk, for a lamb to lose flesh at this period is a very great drawback.
The ewes on the other hand should be fed on dry hay or should be turned into a dry pasture. The reason for this is to check the milk supply. It otherwise treated, that is, fed on juicy food, it is liable to cause inflammation or garget. It is al ways a good plan to have the sheep milked soon after separation, to avoid danger.
General Management of Sheep.—The sheep when
the first cold comes on, should be better cared for
and have more nutritious food in order to give them
a fair start for the winter season, as when they get
into their winter quarters they are apt to decline.
When the sheep are heavy and kept fat, the wool
grows with great rapidity and the fleeces are very
heavy. Do not, in the early part of the season.
neglect your sheep ; they should be brought into
their quarters shortly after the appearance of the
cold season.
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SHEEP.
259
Sufficient room in these quarters, ventilation and such conveniences are all necessary for the welfare and the health of your flock.
A very fine plan is to have separate pens for the different conditions of sheep ; those that are strong, in one, and so on, according to their condition of health and strength.
Quarters for Sheep.—The pens should be dry and provided with shelter for a comfortable protection for the sheep when it begins to storm. It is always well to have the pens sloped, to prevent the accu mulation of water. A very fine pen and shed is one where the shed is boarded up on three sides with a sliding-door, which in case of very severe storms can be closed ; this door should be on the south side of the building, and in very sunny weather should be let down.
It is a very good plan to have the floor of this shed covered with straw or sawdust for the clean liness which it affords. These sheds and pens can be extended along as far as possible, and they should be entered by a door at the rear ot the house. It is always necessary to keep salt and tar on hand, as they are excellent for sheep to lick.
It is always well to smear the noses of sheep in the summer with tar to prevent the deposit getting in the nostrils, which may afterwards develop into that much dreaded disease, of nit in the head.
This very infectious disease once killed a fine flock of Shropshire sheep, under the management of F. P. Corliss of the White Loat Stock Farm, Southampton, Mass. This was due to a kind of a grass which grew in the pasture at the time, and even afterwards it so prevailed over the whole farm that it was impossible to raise sheep. This disease must be looked out for with great activity, and should be stopped immediately.
In these sheds there should be arranged racks for feeding, and food should never be thrown upon the ground, as it is a waste of good material.
Fences.—Good fences are requisite where sheep are confined, and it is a well-known saying that sheep, more than any other animal, know how to jump fences. Let one sheep lead and the whole flock will follow.
A good fence will save a farmer much annoyance, and he will always find his sheep where he left them. It is always well to have a pasture on a side hill if pos sible, never allowing your sheep to go into marshy grounds, as this is very bad for their health. If you have a very large pasture it is always advisable to put a fence down through the middle ot it and thus have two pastures, putting the sheep in one pasture and then changing them into the other. Many people at night, run their sheep into a fold, as a protection against wolves, dogs and other wild animals. The location of this should be on a sloping ground that it may not become wet and moist, and care should be taken that the fence be
I so built that it will even exclude the entrance of a dog. A fancier of sheep once built a pen after this nature ; it was made up of four sides, made out of pickets ; at the corners there were holes for pins to fit in ; he could then put up the four sides and have a sheep pen. This pen at the four corners had four large wheels, about eight inches in diam eter, which were so constructed that they could turn in any direction. In this pen he kept his prize ram and two ewes. Each day this pen would be moved in different places around the orchard which was near the house, thus affording a new supply of grass for the sheep and keeping them in fine condition. This is simply a suggestion for some people who care to have some of their stock to show to people coming to see them.
Salt for Sheep.—It is often said by a great many farmers and shepherds that there is no one thing which so contributes to the health of sheep as much as salt. It is known to be one of the very es sential ingredients in the sheep‘s food ; where salt is not, the sheep can not and will not thrive ; it does away with that injury which has often happened when sheep are turned from dry food to green, at which time the green food ferments in the stomach of the sheep and causes great injury.
The best plan for supplying salt to sheep is to have what they call patent salt-rolls, which are protected from the rain by a covering and at which the sheep can get as much salt as they care to lick. However, should you desire to salt your sheep, be always sure that the supply will fill the demand and that no sheep goes salt-hungry.
Water Supply for Sheep.—It is often said, from lack of knowledge, that sheep do not require a water supply. They, like all other animals, need that supply and should never be without it. That sheep can live in a pasture and not have water can not be denied ; however, they cannot be as healthy nor as strong, and the only pasture in which they can live without water is that where there is very succulent grass, which in itself supplies more or less water.
Shearing the Sheep.—A great deal of carelessness may result in the shearing of sheep, namely, in the cutting of the skin, which will need all summer to heal, leaving the wool in patches ; when the farmer wishes to know whether his sheep are shorn or not, let him look at the inside of the fleece to see if there are any short pieces. Damp and chilly weather should always be avoided, and not, as most farmers do, wait for a rainy day before shearing the sheep, as the change from removing the fleece is a very great one. Care should be taken that your animals do not take cold. There are various methods of shearing, each one having his own ; but there are a few points which should be noticed, namely, to bring the point of the shears near the skin, keeping the end well away from the body of the
SHEEP. 261
animal and never taking but one cut at the same I length of the fiber, for if more than one cut is taken I the fiber is injured. Sheep should not be shorn at such a time that they suffer from the cold ; when it is delayed for a length of time the burden will become unbearable to them. Do not expose your sheep to the cold or rains after shearing them. The wool from the head and neck is generally separated and should be wound up inside of the fleece.
Tying and Packing Wool. — The manner in which the fleece is tied, has much to do with its sale. The fleece should be as little broken as possible in shear ing, and should be free from all filth ; it should be put in the exact shape in which it came from the sheep and pressed close together. If the loose wool is to be used, place in the middle, fold each end in, each side one quarter, the neck one corner, and the fleece will then be in an oblong shape some twenty inches wide, and twenty-five or thirty inches long. Then fold it once more and it is ready to be rolled up and tied or placed in the press.
Classes and Grades of Wool,—Wool is divided ac cording to the length of its staple and fineness. We have the coarse wool for carpets and the fine wool for clothing ; and the combing clothing wool is divided into three classes, fine, medium and coarse. The finest being used for broadcloth and the fin est of woolen goods. Combing wool is used for shawls, worsted alpaca and furniture coverings. The staple is generally four to eight inches long; the coarser the wool, the longer it generally is. The coarse wool is used for carpeting and the man ufacture of blankets. Wools are valuable according to their luster and shrinkage.
Sheep Ranches.—One of the first requisites in starting and building up a sheep ranch is to find a good supply of water; it is said that three to five miles should be the length for a sheep ranch. The sheep should be herded only in about two and three hundred to each herd. It is also well not to keep cattle and sheep together.
As a rule the way that the Western sheep herder does, is to get an advance on his money from some commission house, and ship on his wool to be baled and sold at the best market price. Oftentimes the Western ranchmen mortgage the wool on their sheep‘s back in order to get their money out quickly, and there are a great many buyers going into the Western ranches who buy as much wool as they can ship East and make liberal advances on the same, charging a small per cent commission for selling; thus the Western ranchmen are brought into con tact with the Eastern market, and realize a good profit on their wools.
diseases of sheep.
As a rule sheep are naturally. healthy animals, and except where great negligence has been shown,
diseases seldom gets a foothold. It is oftentimes said, that the digestive organs of the sheep are stronger than any other animal that has been domesticated.
Catarrh. — This is sometimes a cold in the head which has been neglected, and it may be caused by becoming chilled and by being left in cold places or drafts. It consists of inflammation of the mem brane and oftentimes extends down the lungs, caus ing lung fever. The best remedy is to take care of such sheep. A good remedy is to smear the nose of your sheep with tar, and care should be given to your flock during the rainy seasons, to keep them in a good dry place. Sulphur one part to five parts of salt is considered a good remedy.
Choking.—Choking is caused by anything get ting in the throat; a good preventive is to pour a little oil down the throat. A person can easily with the hand move the obstruction up and down, thus giving relief.
Cotted Wool.—The cause of this is that the sheep are too much exposed to severe weather and storms, being allowed to lie in damp places, and it is also due to imperfect food material. There is a great tendency to scab or skin disease ; good food, good pure air and clean water, and dry land to run upon are the only remedies for this.
Colic.—This is, as in the case of horses, very distressing. It is caused by drinking too much cold water when their blood is warm and heated ; it is well to give an ounce of Epsom salts dissolved in warm water, and for a lamb one half this dose is a great sufficiency.
Grub in the Head.—Grub in the head is a disease which is very common among sheep ; the gad-fly is the cause of this ; she lays her eggs about the open ing of the nose, and the young grubs make their way up the nostril of the sheep, finally reaching the brain, where they attach themselves by two little hooks coming out of their heads. It is the cause of the death of a great many animals ; sometimes they are at least a half an inch long. The sheep often times try to guard against this fly, and some people advise the practice of having a tract house into which the sheep can run, and thus get away from the fly which will not enter a tract house.
Hoof Hot—This is the most contagious disease that sheep have to contend with ; oftentimes it hap pens that a single sheep affected with this disease has ruined an entire flock. It is a disease of the hoof generally where the hoof unites with the bony structure. Oftentimes the hoof comes off and the sheep die. This disease is caused, as is generally supposed, by an undue amount of dampness and a wet and marshy soil. It is first detected by lame ness in the foot, and if attended to directly, can be Cured. The first thing to do in such a case is to take them to a dry pasture, the hoof should be pared by a skillful operator using a knife, and if
262
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properly done no bleeding will result therefrom. A solution of arsenic is sometimes recommended, three ounces of arsenic being allowed to a gallon of water, also put in an ounce of salt. It should be put on as warm as the hand can bear.
The theory of this is that the arsenic hardens the hoof, and not only does it act as an antiseptic, but also kills the germ of the disease.
In the applying of this solution it is well to have a long trough for the sheep to put their feet in.
Fermentation of the Stomach.—This is caused by sheep being put into a too rich pasture. The symp toms are, the sheep breathing fast, the body being largely swollen and the sides stick out, especially the
 A Fine Specimen.
left side. As soon as fermentation can be stopped in the stomach, relief will immediately follow. Oftentimes driving around the pasture will accom plish this ; but the best remedy is to give a teaspoon- ful of spirits of ammonia in a pint of water, and then follow this soon after with a dose of Epsom salts. If this prove ineffective it is necessary to open the stomach and let the gas out, being careful not to let any of the contents get into the abdominal cav ity. If a doctor is not handy, a penknife can be used, inserting a tube which prevents any of the contents of the stomach from getting out; the inci sion should be made in the stomach half way be tween the haunch-bone and the last rib near the backbone.
Inflammation of the Eyes.—If the eye seems to be inflamed it is well to see if there is any foreign sub stance ; if so, it should be removed, and then bathe the eyelids with weak salt and water. A little lauda num and sulphate of zinc will in most cases relieve the trouble.
Poisoning.—Often sheep and lambs are poisoned by eating shrubs of a poisonous nature, such as laurel or ivy. When the sheep has been poisoned one might think that it was affected with the colic, on account of the sides being distended ; but rather than being active, as in the case of colic, he is dull and stupid, and there will be generally a frothy, greenish substance about the mouth. The usual remedy is
to give a dose of castor-oil and milk in order to free the stomach as soon as possible.
A stomach pump is a very good thing to use ; di lute the poison with a great deal of water.
Scab.—This is caused, like the mange in the dog, by small insects burrowing in the skin and hatch ing their young there, and unless this burrowing is stopped the death of the animal will follow. It causes itching and pain, the sheep scratches and bites itself, and pulls out his wool, which is only the worse for itself and for others, as in this way it forms sores, and thus the contagion spreads.
Examine the skin in the early stages of the dis ease ; it appears as yellow pimples ; the wool gradu ally falls out and hangs in shreds. This should be
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prevented rather than cured ; if they have good food, warm dry place in winter, good ventilation, housed in proper conditions, they will be free from this most contagious disease. When, however, the dis ease appears, let those that are sick be separated from the well ones, and thus prevent contagion. A strong decoction of tobacco steeped in gallons of water until the strength has been extracted. Five or six pounds of tobacco to as many gallons of water should be used ; some add a pound of blue vitriol for every pound of tobacco, soft and hard soap.
The sheep should be washed in this, and if the scabs are of a hard nature lard may be used so that they can be easily softened.
Arsenic Bath. — Although it may be very desirable it is never done. Poisoning generally takes place either by the sheep licking one another, or by the sheep drinking out of a pond which is used for the
bath. In bathing the sheep it is always well to let them down into the pond on a board, as they are thus easily handled. However, many recommend that when the disease is only located in one or two animals that it is better to kill them outright rather than to jeopardize the whole flock.
Sore Lips.—The remedy for this is two ounces of glycerine, a half a dram of camphor, one-half dram of alcohol, one-half ounce of flour of sulphur; also a little tar sulphur and lard mixed together is a good salve.
Ticks and Lice.—Ticks and lice cause a great deal of suffering to the sheep as well as making them thin and uneasy. When the sheep are sheared these infesters make their homes upon the lambs. These infesters are cured by washing the sheep and the lambs in a solution of cut plug tobacco and water; the animal should be dipped into this solu tion.
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